In previous article, you learned shoe design introduction, three quarter view step by step, side view and top view in shoe design.
Also you read how to design high boots, working boots, sandals, platforms, athletic footwear and espadrilles.
You get acquainted with drawing heels easily from various views and design for production
Now I explain construction terminology
GLOSSARY OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION TERMINOLOGY
The beginning of a shoe starts with the “last.”
The last is a hard, molded, shoe-shaped form usually made of wood or plastic.
Lasts come in a variety of toe shapes and heel heights, depending upon the latest fashions.
The heel height of a last is made specifically for a particular shoe design and cannot be changed during construction.
The toe shape is also very specific and determines what the final shoe will look like.
A shoe last is used to stretch the leather over to form the shoe.
Although you can create many different shoes from the same last, each heel height has to have a different last, as does each shoe size and width.
The fit of a shoe will be determined by the shape and volume of the last.
Lasts have a hinge in the middle so they can be collapsed and removed from the finished shoe without causing any damage.
BACK PART: The rear part of the last from the heel to the ball girth.
BALL GIRTH: The measurement of the last around the ball of the foot.
CENTER BACK: The center of the heel to which you line up the back seam and heel.
CENTER FRONT: The center front line of the last is where you line up the pattern for a proper fit and symmetry.
CONE:The upper instep of the last.
HEEL HEIGHT:The distance between the bottom of the last heel and the floor. FOREPART:The front part of the last from the toe to the ball girth.
LAST: The solid, foundational form around which the shoe materials are stretched to construct and mold the shoe. It defines the final shape of the shoe.
SEAT: The rear bottom of the last to which the heel will fit.
TOE SPRING:The angle at the front of the last that will allow the foot to rock forward from the ball of the foot.
WAIST: The narrow midsection of the last that corresponds to the arch and instep of the foot. It is also where the joint of the last is typically located for bending the last for easy removal.
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